Kohl

In the world of Ancient Egypt, kohl was far more than a mere cosmetic; it was an essential element of both daily life and spiritual belief.

This fine black powder, traditionally made from galena (lead sulphide) or stibnite (antimony sulphide), was ground into a fine pigment and mixed with oils or resins to create a smooth paste. Applied with delicate applicators or reeds, kohl was used by both men and women to line the eyes in dramatic, elongated strokes that swept outward from the corners, accentuating the eyes’ natural beauty while serving a host of practical and symbolic functions.

Practically, kohl acted much like modern sunglasses, its dark pigment reducing the harsh glare of Egypt’s unforgiving sun on the lid of the eye, and its mineral properties even offering a degree of protection against infections such as trachoma.

Yet beyond its practical use, kohl carried profound spiritual resonance. The heavily lined eyes, mirroring the protective gaze of the Eye of Horus, were believed to ward off evil and invoke divine protection. Its presence in tombs, often accompanied by kohl pots, symbolised the enduring need for protection and adornment in the afterlife, ensuring the deceased would face eternity with both grace and safety.

In life and in death, kohl was a marker of status, spirituality, and style, a striking testament to the sophistication and ritual depth of Ancient Egyptian culture.

My heart bares itself instantly,
at the memory of your love.
It does not let me walk like a person,
it has strayed from its shelter.
It does not let me put on a dress,
I cannot even wrap my scarf,
No kohl can be put on my eye,
I am not anointed with oil.
‘Don’t stand there – go in to him’
it tells me at each memory of him.
Don’t, my heart, be stupid at me:
why are you acting the fool?
Sit, be cool, the sister has come to you’
but my eye is just as troubled.
Don’t make people say of me
‘she is a woman fallen by love’
Be firm each time you remember him,
My heart, do not stray.
Papyrus Chester Beatty I, 4th Stanza

Kohl Jars & Cosmetic Holders

Across the world’s museums, one finds a dazzling array of kohl jars from Ancient Egypt. These small yet exquisite vessels that speak volumes about both daily life and ritual in this ancient civilisation.

These pots, which once held the precious black powder used to adorn the eyes (some even with pigment still remaining), range in material from humble to luxurious. In museums such as the Louvre, the British Museum, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, kohl jars crafted from simple clay or wood sit alongside those made from alabaster, faience, stone, and even those adorned with precious metals like gold and silver. The choice of material often reflected the social status of the owner: elite individuals and royalty favoured richly carved or inlaid vessels of alabaster and anhydrite, sometimes accented with gold leaf, while common folk likely relied upon more utilitarian pots of clay or wood.

Accompanying many of these jars are slender applicators or kohl sticks, elegantly tapered pieces often made of wood, bone, ivory, or metal. These were designed to reach into the jar and lift out the powdered or paste-like kohl, which could then be applied with a practiced hand to create the iconic elongated eye lines that defined ancient Egyptian beauty. These sticks, too, reflected the user’s status, while simple wooden sticks sufficed for everyday use, wealthier individuals often possessed elaborately carved applicators, sometimes even bearing inscriptions or decorative motifs.

The use of kohl was a practice embraced across all levels of society, from kings and queens to farmers and artisans, and both men and women partook in its application. While the wealthy might have commissioned ornate jars of fine stone to grace their dressing tables, even the humblest of Egyptians could possess a modest kohl pot and stick, testifying to the universal appeal and importance of eye makeup in both fashion and function.

As previously stated, beyond mere aesthetics, the protective qualities of kohl, believed to ward off evil spirits and reduce glare from the sun, made it a necessity rather than a luxury. Thus, these jars and their accompanying sticks offer a fascinating glimpse into the daily lives, beliefs, and social dynamics of Ancient Egypt, revealing how beauty, health, and spirituality intertwined in a single, elegant gesture.

Cosmetic Spoons

Kohl, being a powdered pigment often made from galena or stibnite, was traditionally stored in dedicated jars or pots to keep it dry and ready for application, accompanied by slender applicators for direct transfer to the eyes.

Cosmetic spoons from Ancient Egypt, beautifully carved in the shapes of swimming girls, animals, or lotus flowers, were used in the broader context of personal adornment and ritual, but they were not typically used to store kohl. These spoons were often intended for mixing, scooping, or offering unguents, perfumes, and scented oils, rather than the kohl itself. However, cosmetic spoons could have been used for blending or offering powdered pigments, such as eyeshadow made from crushed green malachite or red ochre used for blush or lip colour. These powders were likely mixed with oils or fats before application, and the spoons may have served to prepare or present these mixtures, especially in ritual contexts.

In essence, while kohl itself was stored in jars, cosmetic spoons were part of the wider ritual of beautification, used for preparing and offering various cosmetic substances, including powdered pigments for the face and eyes, and fragrant unguents.